Dead Animal Smell Odor Removal

How To Get Rid of Dead Animal Smell Or Odor

Animals, particularly small rodents are great at smelling and finding entry points into cool or warm houses, crawl spaces, attics, and vehicles. This is why we warn against using poison. Poison works, it kills small animal, and they often die in inconvenient places, i.e  your walls, or other hard or impossible to reach places in your home or office. Sometimes they die in your neighbor's yard, or your yard and get eaten by a pet, which from time to time causes a pet to die from ingesting a poison filled rodent. We often remove bloated raccoons and opossums from attics that have been feasting on poisoned rats, which can be rare as a homeowner, but something to consider.

You will never eliminate the dead animal smell without removing the dead animal, so if the animal dies 14ft up in your wall next to an ac vent your probably going to smell that animal, (or animals if you use poison) after the animal is removed the smell should start to dissipate and after you sanitize the area even more so.

What not to do when trying to eliminate the odor

First instinct is to shut the door or close off the area to the nightmare that is the smell you smell. Most people shut the door to the room, put a towel under the door and try to keep it confined to that one area. This will work, if you want only that room to smell like a bucket of death. You can go ahead and use your glade plug ins, scented candles, and other such things in you want the room to smell like a seasonal gift basket of death. Let me be really clear about this, there is NO PRODUCT THAT CAN COVER THE SMELL OF A DEAD ANIMAL, but we will tell you how if you keep reading.


Get Rid Of the Carcass Get Rid Of The Smell !  What you do with the body will depend on the local bylaws in your municipality, but your options include burying, burning, and throwing the body in the trash. Don’t touch the animal directly: either wear gloves or use a shovel to move the carcass around.

  • To dispose of the body in the garbage back, remove the insulation or debris that surrounds the carcass, then double bag it before placing it in the trash. Remember to seal your outdoor trashcans because other scavenging animals will get in them to retrieve the dead body for food.

  • You may also be able to call an Dead Animal Removal Service to pick up the body if that sort of thing freaks you out.

  • Clean the area. With gloves on, use a rag or paper towels to pick up any leftover fur, juices, or anything else left behind by the animal. Spray the area with an enzymatic cleaner, which will break down the organic materials and help eliminate odors.

But what if I cant find the dead animal ?

If you can't locate the animal, buckle up. If the animal died in a very hard to reach place—such as inside a wall—or you may decide to not destroy the finish of your dry wall- whatever the reason is that makes you  unable to remove the carcass to get rid of the odor, keep in mind the time it takes for decomposition and the smell to dissipate will depend on the size of the animal, the temperature, and the humidity.  Be aware that leaving an animal to decompose could take several weeks or even months.

  • Use a strong odor eliminator or disinfectant in the area. You can do this by spraying a product like Bac-Azap, hanging Odor Neutralizing Bags, or using a Neutralizing gel. You can buy these at Home Depot or Order them from Amazon below.

  • Replace the bags as necessary and continue using the other neutralizers until the decomposition has finished.



Let It Breathe

  1. Ventilate the area. Whether you’ve removed the source of the smell or you're waiting it out, ventilation is key to freshening the air and helping eliminate bad odors.

    • Open as many windows as possible

    • Get the air moving

    • Set up a few fans to blow air from inside the house to outside.


Other Dead Animal Removal Articles





What A Rat Infestation Can Do to your Mental Health

What A Rat Infestation Can Do to your Mental Health

Believe me I understand, and no your not crazy, it’s actually pretty common. Rats can be scary, the scratching in the ceiling, or walls, late at night, when it’s dark. But its real something is up there, but stick with me i will make it less scary.

Its commonly called Musophobia :

Musophobia is also known as Suriphobia and Murophobia (murine stems from the Muridae family that encompasses mice and rats) .

Musophobia is created by the unconscious as a protective mechanism. This mechanism was probably created as some point in the persons past when they had a traumatic experience with a mouse or rate. Examples of this could be having your house or room invaded by them, finding them eating your food, being surprised when they jump from a trash can, touching them while getting up as they run from under furniture, smelling them, or getting sick from them (The Black Plague in Europe was carried by rats). There are hundreds of ways people could have developed their traumatic experience.

This fear could be triggered by the presence of a mouse or rat in a room or store, seeing them on TV or in movies, someone joking about them, or smelling them. These are only a few possible examples. Everyone experiences their fears in different ways and intensity levels and some react in different ways, such as screaming, running to different rooms, and/or getting to higher ground.

As with any phobia, the symptoms vary by person depending on their level of fear. The symptoms of Musophobia typically include extreme anxiety, dread and anything associated with panic such as shortness of breath, rapid breathing, irregular heartbeat, sweating, nausea, inability to articulate words or sentences, dry mouth and shaking.


Read more about it at


Musophobia is a very common phobia affecting homeowners throughout the Texas and the rest of the United States. Where some people, keep them as pets, but people with musophobia tend to think they are filthy, disease ridden carriers of death and they smell like pirates.  has this to say about why:

  1. Rats and mice are known carriers of pathogens. They are also infamous in history for spreading the Black Plague which wiped away large chunks of the human population. In general, they are known to dwell in sewers, drainages and dark, wet or dirty places. Rats are also known to carry fleas and other parasites that harm not just humans but pets as well.

  2. Wild rats and rodents are not welcome guests in human homes, so they tend to hide in cracks and crevices found around pantries, kitchens and other places having an abundant storage of food. Naturally, they might spring on unsuspecting individuals and startle them.

  3. Like most animal phobias, the fear of mice also stems, usually, from a negative or traumatic experience with rats. Incidents in childhood where a rat has bitten a child or loved ones can also trigger this phobia.

  4. Humans are conditioned from childhood to fear wild rats and rodents. An adult, parent or caregiver, might have been startled by a rat and screamed or climbed up on a chair. Children unknowingly learn to imitate this behavior and the occasional fright triggers an anxiety response that might turn into lifelong phobia of rats and mice.

  5. Popular culture depicts these creatures in negative light: cartoons (Tom and Jerry), books (Pied Piper of Hamilton), movies, and TV shows etc show stereotypical traits about them. Typically: a rat scares the woman protagonist who jumps and climbs up screaming on a chair/table. (Despite these stereotypes, Musophobia actually affects both genders equally.)

As for the symptoms they conclude: (read full article here)

Symptoms of fear of mice phobia

The symptoms of Musophobia vary depending on the extent of fear the phobic experiences. Just like any other Zoophobia, the fear of mice typically triggers physical and mental symptoms which include:

  • Screaming, crying, climbing on beds or tables/chairs

  • Trying to flee

  • Shaking, trembling, and sweating profusely.

  • Having accelerated heartbeat, breathing rapidly or gasping

  • Feeling nauseated, vomiting or having other signs of gastrointestinal distress

Musophobes might experience anxiety/panic attacks at the mere mention of mice, or even from watching them feeding on trash, or in pictures, on TV etc.


There is no question as to if it exist and you are not alone. But as crazy as it sounds, those rats would rather play with you then bite you. We have a great article written about the dangers of them on our website you can read by clicking here.
But if you need rat removal in any of these areas let us know and we will be quick to help as our schedule permits.

Risks & Health Issues Caused by Rodent Feces


If you’re noticing rodent tracks or feces in your attic or home, be it rat, mouse or really any sort of rodent, it’s important that you seek a specialists who can better assess your homes’ health. We have provided you with the information here pertaining to the most common diseases transmitted by rodent living in or near your living area.


rodent droppings

The following 4 diseases are caused by rodent feces and are region-specific.:

●    Bubonic Plague: The dreaded plague is less prevalent and deadly today, but still infects numerous people every year. This is normally spread through fleas on a rodent, but feces can also contain the plague. Symptoms include headache, fever and swollen lymph nodes.

●    Hantavirus: Rodent urine and feces is the primary cause of the Hantavirus. Caused by the white-footed deer mouse, this virus is often seen when these mice are allowed to actively live in the same dwelling as their human counterparts. An infestation in an attic is a prime example of how the Hantavirus can be contracted, although humans don’t realize the mice are living in the home.

●    Lassa Fever: A virus that is contracted through the breathing in of dust that is contaminated with feces or urine. This disease can also be contracted through touching the feces or bites and is spread by rats.

●    Rat-bite Fever: Food that is contaminated by rodents can cause rat-bite fever. This is an infectious disease that can be fatal.

●    Salmonellosis: Spread through rodent feces. Salmonellosis is a type of food poisoning that causes high fevers, abdominal pains and diarrhea.

These are just the viruses that are normally seen in Metroplex Area. There are also several other rodent-transmitted viruses that are less common in the area, such as Leptospirosis, Hemorrhagic-Fever and Tularemia. All of these diseases are classified as worldwide by the CDC.


Whatever the case, if you’re seeing rodent feces, droppings, or otherwise tracks of any sort, it’s best to let a rodent remover professional inspect the situation.


examples of rats

Diseases directly transmitted by rodents


Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in North and South America

The disease spreads

  • Breathing in dust that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings

  • Direct contact with rodents or their urine and droppings

  • Bite wounds, although this does not happen frequently

Additional Information

Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome (HPS)

Hemorrhagic Fever with Renal Syndrome


Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Asia, Russia, Korea, Scandinavia, western Europe, and the Balkans

How the disease spreads

  • Breathing in dust that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings

  • Direct contact with rodents or their uring and droppings

  • Bite wounds, although this does not happen frequently

  • The disease may spread through direct contact from person to person, but it is extremely rare

Additional Information

Hemorrhagic Fever with Renal Syndrome

Lassa Fever

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in West Africa

How the disease spreads

  • Breathing in dust that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings

  • Direct contact with rodents or their urine and droppings

  • Eating food that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings

  • Bite wounds, although this does not happen frequently

  • The disease may spread through direct contact from person to person

Additional Information

Lassa Fever


Rodent(s) involved

Rodents and other animals

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Worldwide

How the disease spreads

  • Eating food or drinking water contaminated with urine from infected animals

  • Contact through the skin or mucous membranes (such as inside the nose) with water or soil that is contaminated with the urine from infected animals

Additional Information


Lymphocytic Chorio-meningitis (LCM)

Rodent(s) involved

House mouse (Mus musculus)

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Worldwide

How the disease spreads

  • Breathing in dust that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings

  • Direct contact with rodents or their urine and droppings

  • Bite wounds, although this does not happen frequently

Additional Information

Lymphocytic Chorio-meningitis

Omsk Hemorrhagic Fever

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Western Siberia

How the disease spreads

  • Direct contact with infected animal

  • Bite from an infected tick

Additional Information

Omsk Hemorrhagic Fever


Rodent(s) involved

Wild rodents, including rock squirrels, prarie dogs, wood rats, fox squirrels and other species of ground squirrels and chipmunks

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Western US, South America, Africa, Asia

How the disease spreads

  • Bite of an infected flea

  • Direct contact with infected animal

Additional Information


Rat-Bite Fever

Rodent(s) involved

Rats and possibly mice



Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Worldwide; Streptobacillus moniliformis in North America and Europe; Spirillum minue in Asia and Africa

How the disease spreads

  • Bite or scratch wound from an infected rodent, or contact with a dead rodent

  • Eating or drinking food or water that is contaminated by rat feces.

Additional Information

Rat-Bite Fever



How the disease spreads

  • Eating or drinking food or water that is contaminated by rat feces

Additional Information


South American Arenaviruses (Argentine hemorrhagic fever, Bolivian hemorrhagic fever, Sabiá-associated hemorrhagic fever, Venezuelan hemorrhagic fever)

Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in South America: parts of Argentina, Bolivia, Venezuela and Brazil

How the disease spreads

  • Breathing in dust that is contaminated with rodent urine or droppings

  • Direct contact with rodents or their urine and droppings

  • Bite wounds, although this does not happen frequently

  • The disease may rarely spread through direct contact from person to person

Additional Information



Rodents involved with this disease mostly occur in Worldwide


How the disease spreads

  • Handling infected animal carcasses

  • Being bitten by an infected tick, deerfly or other insect

  • Eating or drinking contaminated food or water

  • Breathing in the bacteria, F. tularensis

Additional Information


Rats In Attic | (469) 609-7287 | How To Get Rid of Rats

The Guide To Get Rid Of Rats & Scratching In The Attic

getting rid of rodents

The most common household rodents removal issues in the U.S.A are the Norway Rat and the Roof Rat. A quick look at the habits of both will help you understand how to inspect and control the rat population.

The three most important steps for Rat Removal is Sanitation, Inspection and Exclusion
Inspection is an important first step in getting rid of rats. Once you know the location of the rats, you can set traps or place bait.

Exclusion is an important rodent control technique. It will get rid of the rats by making it difficult for them to enter the home or structure. Rats are easier to exclude than mice because rats a typically larger. Mice can enter an opening as small as 3/8" wide. All openings greater that 1/4" should be sealed to exclude mice. For rats, all openings greater that 1/2" should be sealed.

Please also read the section on Sanitation, as it is an important consideration in rodent control. Rat populations, continue to rise, this is no mystery, they were here first. Even the urban areas. They were once thought to be carriers of disease, historically they have been associated with bubonic plague, despite them not transmitting the disease. The creatures are instead the means by which the fleas that carry the plague pathogen are exposed to humans. These creatures are drawn to dense population where they can easily  to establish places for feeding and nesting.

Rats do spread other diseases which put human health and safety at risk. We have written about that and it can be found here. Rat infestations happen, frequently, and the first impulse is to kill the rats or find someone who will.  For those that feel that way we have listed many options for rodent control below. 


examples of rats

Rat Control Methods

Animal rights advocates recommend attempting to live in harmony with rat species whenever possible. This is accomplished by rat-proofing a property to make it less attractive to rodents on the theory that prevention of a problem is always the cheapest and most effective way of dealing with it.

When animals must be removed from an already infested property animal rights activists suggest the use of non-lethal traps. These traps capture the animals alive and unharmed and must be immediately followed by the release of the rats outdoors. Release does not mean dumping the rats miles away from point of capture but rather within 100 yards of the original location. Rats released farther away than this are more likely to die or be killed due to their unfamiliarity with their surroundings.

• Cats & Snakes are natural predators of rodents; rat terriers were specifically bred over centuries to catch and kill rats. this the most natural way to totally get rid of these rodents.

• Rat Snap trap : This is method still works, we suggest a larger trap to accommodate the species’ varying size. When properly set the spring action of the rat trap kills instantly.

• Electrocution traps: are a new tech inventions marketed as a “green” product to stop the use of rodenticides. These devices lure the animal to them and emit a electric shock.

• Blunt-force trauma: this method of dispatching a rat is most common with the use of glue traps.

• Shooting with a projectile: you laugh be we get the call a few times each year.

• Glue traps are or boards which have been sprayed with industrial strength adhesives. These devices capture rats and mice when they cross them. Death can take a very long time (usually dehydration, starvation), which is why many use trauma in this situation.

• Poison: although still used by many consumers and pest control companies, rat poison does not provide a quick or painless death. Whether anti-coagulant based or chemical, poisons can take up to a week to actually kill the animal during which time they will suffer horrendously. Say No to Poison. We do not use or recommend the use of poison. 

However despite the varied opinion of poisons and glue traps are they are legal and viable means for extermination.

Animal rights advocates such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) advocate means and methods which do not involve death. Killing rats according to these animal activists only removes the problem temporarily—get rid of one and another will inevitably and quickly take its place.

First and foremost, these groups stress the importance of controlling the problem before it begins by reducing the attractiveness of a location to rats. Making a house impervious to rats is the single most important action that a property owner can take to prevent rat infestations.

Suggested actions to take to rat-proof a structure include:

• Keeping living areas clean and free of easily accessible food and water sources. This means cleaning up food spills as they occur; storing food items in gnaw proof containers; keeping food preparation areas diligently free of grease and food debris; repairing leaks in water pipes and fixtures immediately on discovery and avoiding areas of standing water as much as possible in and around the house.

• Sealing off rat points of entry in buildings and homes. Rats are opportunistic and ingenious; they take advantages of cracks and crevices as small as a quarter to gain access to structures. Roof rats have also been observed using phone lines to gain entry via small openings in house eaves. Basements with wooden floors and openings in building foundations are other points of vulnerability.

• Do not feed pets outdoors or have food dishes permanently positioned outside the house. If there is no alternative to outside feeding, pick up dishes and food debris promptly and thoroughly after pets have finished eating. When storing pet (or human) food in sheds, garages or basements sturdy plastic, glass and metal containers must be used.

• Do not maintain a bird feeder near the house. The spillage from bird feeders is a huge attractant to rats. Either feed birds only in times of severe weather when they cannot forage for themselves or station feeders away from house, garage and other outbuildings.

• Keep grass cut and bushes at least 18 inches away from the outside of the house. This exposes points of available entry and makes it more difficult for rats to roam about unobserved. This action will also reveal burrows and nests near the house and should help with removing rats in backyards. Rats like most wild creatures avoid high exposure areas.

• Keep woodpiles away from the sides of homes and garages. Wood stacked against the side of a structure can allow rats to burrow into structures unseen or hide existing points of entry. This will pre-emptively eliminate the possibility of rats in walls by cutting off a prime avenue of access.

Ideally, these simple, effective measures result in natural population control by denying rats sustenance and shelter. Rats can and do live in areas of high human population density undetected and without creating significant public health hazards when these methods are assiduously employed.

So, which type of rat do you have scurrying around in your attic?

To determine this, there are a few key differences you should note down. This is important in helping you catch and eradicate your rat problem, as each species will have preferred baits and methods for trapping.

Appearance - Roof rats look sleek and fast, whereas Norway rats look large and slow(er)

Color - Roof rats are more commonly Black whereas Norway rats are more of a brownish color

Tail - Roof rats have a long rail (longer than their overall body) whereas Norway rats have a shorter tail, shorter than their bodies.

Head/snout - Roof rats have more of a pointed snout, whereas the Norway rat has a blunt snout.

Norway rats

Norway rats, also known as brown rats, are larger than roof rats, they have fairly short tails, and they love to burrow. If these creatures are living in your attic, you’ll notice they have tried to burrow everywhere- look for shredded paper, insulation etc.

Roof Rats

Roof rats, also known as black rats, are mostly smaller than Norway rats- apart from their tails. You’ll know it’s a roof rat you’re dealing with if its tail is longer than its head and body combined. These rats are agile climbers, and will usually nest in shrubs above ground, so it makes sense that they will make their way up to your attic.

Rat Infestation Signs: Droppings

feces chart on how to get rid of rats in your attic

One of the first indicators of the presence of rats is their droppings. A rat infestation in house can be determined or eliminated by a careful examination in dark corners and along baseboards for rat feces.

Rat droppings can be anywhere between a half inch to three quarter inches in size (contrasted against the rice grain sized feces of the house mouse) depending on which species is involved. The black rat’s fecal pellets are roughly a half inch long; those of the brown rat are larger commensurate with their greater size, each pellet can be ¾ of an inch long.

When fresh, rat feces of both species have a slight sheen and dark color. Also depending on the species of rats involved, droppings may be found singly or in groupings. As droppings age, they turn grey in color and have a crumbly consistency.

Rodent Urine

Other indications of the presence of rats are urine trails or puddles and “grease” stains on walls and baseboards. These stains are caused by the natural oils and dirt on the rats’ fur rubbing off on surfaces they travel on or through, small barely distinguishable stains are likely caused by mice, rats leave larger stains on these surfaces.

Rats are the poster children for incontinence; they dribble urine with almost every step they take and pass feces with a similar abandon. Rat urine leaves a musty scent, most noticeable in small enclosed spaces.

Evidence of gnawing

Rats are inveterate nibblers who can bite through all but metal, glass and thick plastic containers. Even if droppings are not readily apparent, if chew marks are found on food boxes or sacks, a rat or mouse infestation is all but a certainty. Dry pet food bags or boxes should be inspected as well; rats are particularly drawn to “meaty” smells characteristic of both cat and dog chow.Good starting points in a survey for signs of rat infestation are the areas involved in food storage and preparation. Rats exploit human populations for ready food and water sources, the pantry or kitchen is a magnet for rat activity. Droppings and grease stains may be visible in kitchen cabinets and drawers; but food containers should also be inspected for signs of gnawing.

Rats have been known to gnaw into non-food items such as soap. If an item has a smell attractive to the rodents, they will nibble away on it.

Another kitchen location for rat sign is under the sink. If plumbing is at all leaky, the opportunistic rodents will avail themselves of the ready water supply. They have also been known to chew through plastic water pipes. This extends to other plumbing, including the bathroom and laundry rooms. Carefully inspect the areas around any pipes or faucets for droppings urine, grease marks and signs of chewing.

Rats have incisors that never stop growing; they gnaw on non-edible materials to wear the teeth down. Wood is a favorite target of rat gnawing. Sometimes teeth marks are readily apparent on exposed wooden surfaces; the newer areas will be light in color, revealing the untreated wood beneath the surface. As these marks age they darken, so that new markings can be readily distinguished from old. Even when obvious gnaw marks are not visible, sawdust and small chunks of wood near baseboards may indicate the presence of a rat colony.

Rat signs: Sound

Another, often overlooked sign of a rat infestation is sound. Rats are nocturnal animals that tend to be the busiest while humans are asleep. Nevertheless, the alert homeowner will be able to hear squeaks, scratching, rustling and scampering sounds as the rats travel about in search of food and build their nests. Listening for these sounds just before bedtime can help to verify a rat problem.


Rats nest in warm, dry, out of the way places including boxes, inside cabinets, behind dressers (and in drawers, especially those not often accessed), even the casings of computer towers. They will also climb up into the insides of furniture to nest in the stuffing.

Rats also take advantage of the warmth found near refrigerators, stoves and dishwashers, hiding behind or even inside of their housings.

Rats prefer soft, warm and fuzzy nesting materials, which they transport to the nest site and stuff into their chosen space. Nesting materials include grasses, fabric, furniture stuffing, quilt batting, absorbent cotton, shredded paper and twigs. Inspect stored fabrics for chew holes, quilt and cotton batting for any sign of urine and droppings, whenever possible store such inviting nesting materials in durable plastic storage containers that can be sealed airtight.

Pay Attention to Your Pets

The presence of rats can generate greater excitability among household pets. If your dog or cat spends time listening intently or pawing at baseboards and walls, it is highly likely that they are responding to the activity of rats within the structures. They also respond to the odor of unseen rodents, although they may alert to old rat smells as well as more recent ones.

Rat trails

In dusty areas, rat paw prints may be visible along baseboards and walls. Where dust is not allowed to accumulate, one can test for the presence of mice and rats by sprinkling talcum powder next to baseboards, leaving it for a few days. If rats or mice are traveling along these paths, the talcum will bear evidence of their habitual traffic.

Incidentally, inspection for rat infestation signs should not be limited to interior spaces alone. Food gardens or nearby agricultural fields are strong rat attractions. Plants and their fruits should be inspected for signs of chewing, and the surrounding soil checked for evidence of rat droppings. Outside structures used for grain storage should be regularly inspected for evidence of rats as well.

Rat Infestation Risks

Rats present health risks other than direct transmission of diseases. Their urine and fecal pellets can contaminate food and water supplies rendering them inedible and undrinkable. Rats also have mites and fleas that can readily jump to domesticated pets, and in some cases, onto people.Rats are perceived in most of the world as dirty animals that spread disease to humans and domesticated animals. It is true that a number of serious diseases and illnesses are transmissible from rodent to human or pets. Companion animals can fall victim to some of these diseases, other maladies use cats and dogs as vectors to spread to humans.

However, the risks of rat infestation are not just to health alone. The tendency of rats (and mice) to chew on electrical wiring is claimed to be a common cause of structural fires. Rats are not inconsiderable sources of structural damage.

Rats not only gnaw to wear down their incisors, they will also chew through walls and other impediments to reach food, or to create a more direct route to a water or food source. They may also chew into structures to expand or create nesting sites. Rats can cause substantial damage to walls, baseboards, roof rafters, subflooring, ceilings and support beams, especially when a large colony of rats is responsible for the infestation.

What to Do In Case of a Rat Infestation

Let’s say you’ve done your due diligence and have determined that your home or business has been infested by rats. What do you do?

The first thing NOT to do is panic.

The second thing to do is determine whether or not it is necessary to hire a professional to deal with the problem or fight it yourself. This decision is not always a simple one; the size of the infestation is a consideration. If the rat population invading your structure is small, do-it-yourself efforts may be successful both in terms of cost and efficacy.

If the infestation is severe or you simply don’t feel you can cope with the elimination of the rats, you should consider enlisting the services of a professional rat control company. Money spent on experts can often turn out to be more cost effective in terms of greater efficiency and reduced costs of traps, poisons and cages. In individual stress alone it may well be worth it to leave dealing with the infestation in the hands of qualified technicians.

Exterminators can also often help home and business owners rat proof their buildings after the infestation has been dealt with. They frequently also provide ongoing monitoring against future invasions.

There are other considerations which impact the decision of hiring rat control specialists or going the DIY route. You must determine if you are willing to solve your rat problem via toxic, inhumane efforts, or if you prefer humane, environmentally friendly and pet safe alternatives.

Rat poisons are not only considered inhumane due to the length of time it takes rat poison to effect a kill; they present significant risks to the health of pets, wildlife and young children via secondary poisoning.

The U.S. Government has recently limited access to certain types of rat poisons and has banned others outright. Consumers are no longer allowed to buy certain rodenticides, and regulations have been implemented that limit the types and designs of rat traps that can be used by the public. Poisonous baits must now be housed in tamper proof bait stations that limit the access of wildlife, pets and children to the rat poisons contained within.

Poisons can also leach into soil and water putting other animals and humans at risk. Also, rats dying of poisoning often retreat to their nests, which means that dead rodents will decompose in areas inaccessible to humans. This can lead to long lasting, very unpleasant odors within a home or business.

Thanks to the societal “Green Revolution” many rat control specialists are now turning to extermination and control methods which are considered more environmentally friendly, humane as well as less toxic to non-target animals. Careful research into the types of exterminators found in your area, and the methods employed is vital.

Rat Infestation Solution?

Rats breed and colony size increases when the supply of food and water is steady and abundant in quantity. In order to prevent future infestations follow these guidelines:In terms of rat control an ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure. After an infestation has been dealt with—or better yet, before it establishes itself– the key to a permanent solution to rat infestations is to make a property less attractive to rats. This requires a certain amount of effort and dedication to ongoing maintenance on the part of the property owner but the labor expended is well worth it.

• Rat proof your house by closing off areas of easy access, including small gaps in foundations, roofs and rafter areas. Cover up ventilation openings with rat proof, high strength mesh. Fix or block other non-essential openings in walls, roofs and foundations.

• Remove or trim back shrubs and plants that hug the sides of buildings. Rats, depending on the species use these as either a ladder to climb up into a structure or camouflage for burrowing near or into a home or business. Keep lawns closely mowed within 18 inches of the outside walls of structures. Remove woodpiles and debris from yards or move them farther from existing buildings.

• Either police your bird feeder and diligently clean up any spillage or locate the feeders away from the house. Seed spillage from feeders is one of the prime attractants for rodents.

• Do not feed pets outside of the house, or if you must, monitor the feedings personally and remove any leftover food from the exterior feeding area. Rats love to pillage pet food dishes and water bowls which can also attract other animals like opossums that are also capable of spreading disease to humans.

• Do not store pet food in sheds or garages unless you are able to do so in containers that a rat cannot chew through. This means metal, glass, ceramic or heavy duty plastic containers with airtight seals only.

• Keep indoor areas clean and free of food and water sources. Clean up food spills immediately and thoroughly. Store food items in chew-proof containers. Keep food preparation areas free of grease; use weak water and bleach solution to sanitize counter tops and other areas where food is handled or sits for even small periods of time.

• Repair leaky pipes and faucets immediately, avoid areas of standing water inside and adjacent to the house.

• Keep homes free of clutter, especially of materials attractive to nest building females. Dispose of paper refuse; keep garbage bins/containers clean and tightly closed between trash pick-ups.

Eliminating the avenues of access for rats forces them to rely on other sources of sustenance and water. Populations will self-control according to natural food sources in the wild. In lean times, rat populations will not increase but decrease; starvation is a natural population control. Females will not breed readily where the amount of available food is unstable or scarce.

With just a little effort, as wells as small investments of time and attention rat infestations can be eliminated in your home.

Best Practices

You need to seal each exterior hole into your house. This can be anything from a crack in the foundation to a loose roof tile, open chimney or trashcan. Mice, insects and bats can also exploit these holes, so sealing them up can solve many pest problems.

Rats have exceptionally strong teeth and can chew through roof tiles, vents and soffit covers. Any existing holes should be sealed with steel mesh or concrete. Ensure outdoor trashcans are not left open and remove debris and loose vegetation from around your home as it can harbor the insects rats love to eat.

Hawk or owl decoys and live cats also do not properly repel rats. Ultrasonic emitters are marketed as producing a high-pitched sound that will annoy rats into leaving, but these are also pointless. The only way to prevent rats from entering your home is to seal it up and deny them entry.

Rats can be incredibly invasive, and it only takes one to contaminate your home. Minimize your stress by using a professional to remove rats and any other unwelcome pests.